Monday, February 1, 2016

Embark On A Meticulous Journey Through The Study Of Beef At A Japanese-Inspired Steakhouse In SF

Liz Hafalia / The Chronicle
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you have probably heard of Alexander’s Steakhouse. The Lamborghini, Chanel, and Rolex of steakhouses, Alexander’s is more than just a place where diners drop hundreds of dollars on premium cuts of beef. For me, it was also an immersive journey and a guided study of beef in which I had the opportunity to explore different cooking techniques, textures, and flavors.

Hamachi Shot ($30)

Hamachi Shot ($30)
My dining experience at Alexander’s began with the Hamachi Shot ($30) from the Bites menu. Each shot glass contained fresh hamachi sashimi with a slice of avocado, serrano pepper, cilantro, julienne radish, and crispy garlic mixed with yuzu-soy sauce. The dish was not only pleasing to the eyes, but also to the mouth. I loved the complex dynamic among different textures, from the tender hamachi to the creamy avocado.

Dry-Aged Kagoshima Wagyu ($30)

Dry-Aged Kagoshima Wagyu ($30)
The Dry-Aged Kagoshima Wagyu ($30), also from the Bites menu, was such a tease to the mouth. A thinly sliced, beautifully marbled Kagoshima wagyu was wrapped over marinated eryngi mushroom. I could taste the fire from the piece of beef that was seared in binchotan (Japanese white charcoal).This juicy, melt-in-your-mouth wagyu roll was rubbed with yuzu to add an interesting citrus flavor.

Uni Toast ($9)

Uni Toast ($9)
The final item from the Bites menu, the Uni Toast ($9) truly highlighted Alexander’s unique incorporation of Japanese cuisine at a steakhouse. Atop a buttery, marrow toasted brioche slabbed with thousand island dressing laid creamy uni and braised oxtail with thinly sliced seaweed. The buttery, creamy flavor from the brioche, uni, and the thousand island dressing was a bit excessive for my personal preference, but the extremely tender oxtail balanced out the flavor with its savoriness.

Marin Roots Local Greens ($14)

Marin Roots Local Greens ($14)
Don’t expect plain lettuce and croutons when you order a salad at Alexander’s. TheMarin Roots Local Greens ($14), served in a delicate ceramic bowl, contained fresh greens, onsen egg, and crispy squash chips tossed in green goddess dressing and seasoned with yuzu-kosho. The egg yolk dripped all over the salad to provide creamy texture that balanced well with the crispy squash chips and crunchy greens.

Tajima F1 from Australia ($48 for 3oz)

Tajima F1 from Australia ($48 for 3oz)
The main act at Alexander’s, of course, was the steak. Ranging from filet mignon to porterhouse to wagyu, Alexander’s steak menu boasted an impressive collection of cuts and varieties. Our knowledgeable waiter recommended the Tajima F1 from Australia ($48 for 3oz) based on our predilection for leaner cuts. Because this medium rare steak was so lean, I would recommend getting a more marbled cut if you want the much desired, melt-in-your mouth texture. We were given a tray of 12 different salts from around the world to pair with the steak. I wished the beef had been seasoned even more lightly so that adding additional sodium wouldn’t seem overindulgent.

Sides of Butternut Squash ($12), Wild Mushrooms ($16), Shichimi Fries ($14)

Sides of Butternut Squash ($12), Wild Mushrooms ($16), Shichimi Fries ($14)
Alexander’s offered a wide variety of sides, all of which highlighted a unique blend of flavors. While a bit too sweet, I enjoyed the Butternut Squash ($12) with garlic, harissa, and toasted pepitas in maple vinegar, as well as the Wild Mushrooms ($16) featuring at least four different types of mushrooms sauteed in shiro shoyu with yuzu and topped with chives. The thin-cut, extra crispy Shichimi Fries ($14) was served with a side of tonkatsu aioli with sun-dried tomato.

Carrot Cake Souffle ($16)

Carrot Cake Souffle ($16)
For a sweet ending to the savory meal, my guest and I shared the Carrot Cake Souffle ($16). Because the souffle is made to order, it took about 15 minutes for the dessert to arrive. The waiter dropped a generous pour of orange whiskey sauce and a scoop of cream cheese ice cream into the soft, fluffy souffle. The intensity of the orange whiskey sauce unfortunately overpowered other flavors in the souffle, but I still enjoyed the fluffy texture that reminded me of cotton candy. The dessert also included a pair of pecan shortbread topped with a dollop of cream cheese and real carrots.
Alexander’s Steakhouse is by no means an everyday, neighborhood steakhouse given its price tag, but add it to your list of places to dine for special occasion.

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